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T-800

August 8, 2021, 10:25 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Programmed and machined a T-800 head from thingiverse:

T-800 Picture

Here is a finished scull video from all sides: https://youtube.com/shorts/mdclf5LvdyM?feature=share

In the 1st op I milled the base with a 1/4-20 tapped hole right where my Z0Y0Z0 will be.

Then I mounted the base on a square fixture using the tapped hole. This way as I index the square fixture in the vise, my part Z0Y0Z0 remain in the same spot.

2nd op was the back of the scull

3rd op was the face, and the 4th and 5th were the sides

Here is a YouTube video of some of the 3rd op machining. Warning Loud Noise!

Shariff DMC2

July 10, 2021, 6:56 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Thinking about getting your self an affordable desktop CNC?

Check out this Shariff DMC2 designed and built by my fellow Canadian!

I wanted to purchase the first version about a year ago, but his Kickstarter campaign has ended by then and I ended up buying a used Prolight 2000 with auto tool changer.

This looks like a quite rigid, fast and a very powerful (3HP, 24k rpm) machine.

Certainly has better accuracy and power than my old heavy desktop machine with  0.001" backlash and just 1hp, 5k spindle.

Not affiliated in any way, by the way. Just looks like a great product all around.

https://www.youtube.com/embed/e5TsK2Sp-aM

HSMAdvisor Workflow Overview

April 25, 2021, 10:59 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

As a software developer, I am always looking for quality feedback on my software and ideas.
Sometimes it is useless like "speeds and feeds are wrong" or "my cutters are breaking" without explaining what they think is wrong. 
However, the feedback is often thorough and helps propel HSMAdvisor development by miles ahead in a very short time frame.

Here is the HSMAdvisor workflow step-though by our user Jake. He posted on the support forums as an answer to another user's question. And I thought it was so good, I asked his permission to post it on the HSMAdvisor website Help section:

I've been using HMSA for about 3 years now (maybe more) and have running it down to a pretty quick science.

If I need to create a new tool I do the following:

Press reset, select tool type and fill in all parameters as accurately as possible. I click the DOC and WOC labels to set them back to default then I press the "Add Tool" button. This will bring the naming/inventory box up. I only ever fill in the the "Comment" field as this is what the tool database uses to search for tools. Once this is done I click the save button. I use multiple databases (Flat End Mills, Radius End Mills, Jobber Drills, etc) to keep thing a little more organized in my head, however this is absolutely NOT necessary...you can have 1 giant library if you want. I never delete a tool once it is defined. This makes it SUPER fast to toss a tool into a holder and get some quick feeds/speeds by just searching for the tool. It also allows me to go back and search for a tool that I have used in the past. If it is in my HSMA library, it is most likely in one of the many places tools end up hiding in my shop.

If you have the tool saved it is as simple as pressing the "Load Tool/Cut" button. Once your tool database has popped up you can simply start typing and it will find any tools with a "Comment" that matches what you have entered. It's really fast and works really well once you get used to the steps...I can type in "3/8" and get every 3/8 endmill I've ever run to come up on the screen. To make this easier on myself I always include the decimal size as well (I run quite a few regrinds) so I can type in "0.3425" and it will bring up that particular end mill instantly.

Now that your tool is defined and saved you are ready to get some cutting data. If you pick the materials list drop-down you are able to type your material in to do a quick search. I work with 6061, 7075, A2, D2, some CPM, and some plastics. All of them have come up without fail by just starting to type the material designation into the drop-down bar. Once your material is selected you can start entering cutting parameters. I pretty much always enter a DOC and then click the label for WOC to get the recommended width for the depth I am taking. I can then take this WOC value and tweak it until I max out my MRR using a combination of HSM and Chip Thinning. If I need to helix into a pocket I bring up the Circle/Ramp calculator. It is rather self-explanatory, however, you need to make sure you enter your ramp angle every time. It doesn't save a default and can give you a wonky plunge rate if you aren't careful to get the right data entered. If your pocket is going to be larger than 2xD of your tool I just enter the diameter that it will cut during the ramp. Something like 195% of the tool diameter so as to not leave a nub in the center. I also lock the spindle speed and plunge spindle speed so they are the same. I used to use different speeds for them however my machine has a gearbox that doesn't shift from low to high reliably while running a program.

Next, I verify all the green/red bars are in the "safe zones." I leave the deflection/torque sliders at the default of 70%. With long end-mills, I tend to back down the deflection limit and lower the speed slider significantly.

Finally, I can take the calculated values from the top right box and enter them into Mastercam. I tried to set up the integration between HSM and MCAM years ago but it kinda shoehorned the functionality of HSMA from my standpoint. I use 2 monitors and leave HSM on one and MCAM on the other so I can bounce back and forth. If you only have 1 monitor there is a button for a "Floating Feed/Speed" window that will stay on top of MCAM and allow you to get the data moved without tons of switching programs on a single screen.

So that's the basic workflow I use for HSMA and MasterCam. It is not a perfect system but it is really quick. I can grab a tool I have defined in the past, select material, type in DOC, and have workable numbers to start from. It takes about 10 seconds....this program works exactly like my brain does.... it's almost weird how natural it feels.

Sorry if this is an overwhelming post on a necro thread, it is so much harder to explain how to use the software than it is to just....use the software. lol.

Jake

3D Printed Enclosure for Touchscreen CNC Control

February 10, 2021, 11:29 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)
image.png

Since my garage/shop has a limited workspace, I have long wanted to upgrade the big and clumsy computer I used to drive my little Prolight desktop CNC to something more elegant and convenient.

TL;DR: You can read about the printing settings and download files on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754968
Here is the shared Fusion Project: https://a360.co/36UhI15

After quite a bit of googling, and testing the UCCNC control software that i already have I decided to re-use my old Z83 mini-PC with Intel Atom processor.

Then I ordered a SunFounter 10.1" touchscreen monitor with a nice resolution of 1200x800 from amazon.

Since the display does not come with an enclosure I decided to design one myself.
A good opportunity to dust off my 3d modeling skills:

Read More 

First real project almost done!

December 10, 2020, 8:36 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Machined this 2-piece utility knife on my ProLIGHT2000 benchtop CNC.

Just one little lock left!

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Eldar Gerfanov (@hsmadvisor)

ProLIGHT 2000 retrofit. Installing All the components.

September 11, 2020, 9:01 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Having done all the motor tuning and testing on the table, it was time to mount everything inside the machine enclosure.

I cut the heatsink to size enough to house four drivers, laid out some mounting holes, and drilled and tapped them M3.
Then drilled clearance holes in both the heatsink and the board and joined them with some 19mm long brass standoffs.

Drilled a hole in the enclosure for the motion controller mounting and LAN cable connection.

Then the main board containing drives and the power board and the breakout board were installed in the machine.
At this point, I realized the drive mounting scheme I chose was a mistake because it was a lot more challenging to connect the wires to the drive terminals so deep and so close to the enclosure. It helped to unscrew the main board, pull it out a little, connect the wires and only then push it back in and screw it to the wall of the enclosure.

Traced all the black cable going to the fuses and found which ones control the spindle and which ones go to the appliance plugs.
By fiddling with the controls on the front of the machine, identified all the wires and their functionality.

The Gecko G320X drives use the same (ERR/RES) pin controlling the drive fault reset and the error status.
When the drive is at fault (every time you startup or when the motor loses too many counts), it has a ground voltage of 0. If you pass +5v, it will reset the fault and enable the drive.

So I had to re-use the red cycle stop button to pul it to +5V when the machine is started. To sense the drive fault and stop the machine I used pin 12 (pull-down) on the C11G BOB. So when any of the drives pull ERR/RES to ground, the C11G board and mach4 react to it like an E-STOP.

The motors mounted back, and the encoder wires soldered directly to the data cable wires of the same colors. For that, I cut off the bulky DB-25 connectors.

Pay attention to the property belt tensioning. According to the manufacturer, the belt should sag a maximum of 1mm under the pressure of about 3 pounds applied at its middle point.

With everything connected, it is time to test the machine. See how it homes and runs!

Laying out holes on the heatsink 20200906_122155.jpg Everything mounted and connected. What a mess! 20200910_020820.jpg Wiring Schematics WiringSheme.png

ProLIGHT 2000 retrofit!

August 20, 2020, 7:20 am by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

I have been hunting for a very rigid but small machine for the last year or so.

And when I finally found one for sale on an auction in Minnesota, I could not pass.

Now the machine is in my garage.

It is a surprisingly heavy machine with a solid epoxy granite frame.

The features are as follows:

  • 1.5HP 5000 RPM spindle
  • Closed loop servos on all axes
  • Power draw bar and a rack tool changer assembly

I built a table with casters for it and upon plugging it to a computer it turned out that.... It's dead!

The proprietary Animatics control in the back is not working, which means 95% of all electronics in the back must be replaced.

I was actually almost hoping for that because the original software is DOS-only. It is hardly convenient to work with it.

I want it to work under mach or LinuxCNC

So I ordered the required parts online and when all of them are here, I will start the retrofit process.

I will be documenting my process in comments.

Wish me luck!

20200815_172749.jpg 20200815_172749.jpg 20200815_172817.jpg 20200815_172817.jpg 20200815_173030.jpg 20200815_173030.jpg 20200815_172804.jpg 20200815_172804.jpg

HSMAdvisor works with Nomad Carbide 3D too!

August 15, 2020, 11:27 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

HSMAdvisor/FSWizard got featured on DIY Engineering!

It seems like HSMAdvisor's machine profile settings and power compensation work just fine even for as small of a CNC machines as  Nomad  Carbide 3D:

Workholding 101: Machining irregular-shaped part on a fixture

May 8, 2020, 12:30 pm by Eldar Gerfanov (Admin)

Often times CNC programming tutorials only teach you how to create the tool-paths and not enough attention is paid on showing how to properly hold parts being machined.

At the same time efficient workholding is an art in it self and mastering it could drastically improve shop productivity and accuracy.

Without further ado let's jump into the workflow.

Step 1. Analyze the Drawing and the Model

We would have to look at the drawing, tolerances and the CAD model to develop the machining strategy.

This particular part has tight (+/- 0.001) tolerances between the features located on the top and the bottom sides. In addition to that it has a 2.5 degree draft angle on external walls.

Thus I decided to not use the soft jaws approach and machine it in a fixture. Soft jaws are generally OK for tolerances down to +/-0.001" but because of the draft angle the part would always want to pop out of the jaws.

Read More 
1. Finished Part IMAG0781.jpg 2. First Op: Before IMAG0720.jpg 2. First Op. After IMAG0722.jpg 3. Machined Fixture IMAG0763.jpg 4. Second Op: Bearing Seat IMAG0765.jpg 5. Third Op: Finished Part IMAG0767.jpg

Just found a very good video of testing a table-top gantry router cutting mild steel.

YouTuber named "Breaking Tapsused speeds and feeds generated by HSMAdvisor to get a starting point.

To see where exactly he was in the calculations I decided to reproduce all of cuts in HSMAdvisor.

A couple of assumptions i made:

  1. Tool Type: Solid End Mill. It is not recommended to use the HP/Roughing tool type on such light machines, so i assumed this is the tool BT used.
  2. Tool Stick-out looked like about 3/4" so I used that number.
  3. Material was set to A36 Hot rolled steel.

Test 1) Minute 4:52

Good, slow and very safe starting point.

Test 2) Minute 6:20

Twice as aggressive as before, but we can still push it further.

Test 3) Minute 7:10

Here we can see the lack of machine rigidity starting to show. But at 65% feed rate it is still alive.

Test 4) Minute 8:30

This last test did not go well at all.

The machine has finally hit its limit and the endmill broke at all S&F overrides at about 100%

Was this fault of the software? Not really!

If that were a heavier machine, the last cut would not even be considered that difficult.

Here is a full slotting cut on a Matsuura VMC:

And here is the calculation that was done using HP/Roughing End Mill tool type:

If i were using the "Solid End Mill" tool definition, i would have to dial the feed override to 176% to match the 45ipm feed rate!

So what can users of light machines do in order to not break taps end mills?

First of all make sure the spindle torque curve is built and enabled in your machine profile settings.

The easiest solution is to de-rate the spindle. There is "Warning at" level in machine profile settings. Set that to 50% for starters and it should save you from exceeding the machine's capabilities.

Overall this was a great test of this little machine's capabilities and of the great help that software like HSMAdviasor can lend in discovering them.

Please head over to Breaking Taps YouTube account and subscribe.

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