Since my garage/shop has a limited workspace, I have long wanted to upgrade the big and clumsy computer I used to drive my little Prolight desktop CNC to something more elegant and convenient.

TL;DR: You can read about the printing settings and download files on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754968
Here is the shared Fusion Project: https://a360.co/36UhI15

After quite a bit of googling, and testing the UCCNC control software that i already have I decided to re-use my old Z83 mini-PC with Intel Atom processor.

Then I ordered a SunFounter 10.1" touchscreen monitor with a nice resolution of 1200x800 from amazon.

Since the display does not come with an enclosure I decided to design one myself.
A good opportunity to dust off my 3d modeling skills:

Did some testing for HSMAdvisor in A36

Tool: 3/16" 4 FL 0.25" LOC 0.7 Stickout

RPM: 5000 Feed: 32.0ipm

Original engagement DOC:  0.25, WOC: 0.083

Was successful and sounded nice, but the TTS holder started to pull out. Had to half both DOC and WOC for the video:

I have just released a big update for our HSMAdvisor for MasterCAM.

Plugin v2.1.12 now supports Mastercam 2021, 2020 and 2019

Features for all versions are now aligned to the latest HSMAdvisor code!

Check it out here: https://hsmadvisor.com/?page=HSMAdvisor_for_MasterCAM

Cheers!

After almost one month of waiting for parts, tracing wires, testing, soldering, and assembling. Here is the finished product!

Milling case hardened t-slot nuts:

Quick Tool change action with Tormach TTS holders:

Having done all the motor tuning and testing on the table, it was time to mount everything inside the machine enclosure.

I cut the heatsink to size enough to house four drivers, laid out some mounting holes, and drilled and tapped them M3.
Then drilled clearance holes in both the heatsink and the board and joined them with some 19mm long brass standoffs.

Drilled a hole in the enclosure for the motion controller mounting and LAN cable connection.

Then the main board containing drives and the power board and the breakout board were installed in the machine.
At this point, I realized the drive mounting scheme I chose was a mistake because it was a lot more challenging to connect the wires to the drive terminals so deep and so close to the enclosure. It helped to unscrew the main board, pull it out a little, connect the wires and only then push it back in and screw it to the wall of the enclosure.

Traced all the black cable going to the fuses and found which ones control the spindle and which ones go to the appliance plugs.
By fiddling with the controls on the front of the machine, identified all the wires and their functionality.

The Gecko G320X drives use the same (ERR/RES) pin controlling the drive fault reset and the error status.
When the drive is at fault (every time you startup or when the motor loses too many counts), it has a ground voltage of 0. If you pass +5v, it will reset the fault and enable the drive.

So I had to re-use the red cycle stop button to pul it to +5V when the machine is started. To sense the drive fault and stop the machine I used pin 12 (pull-down) on the C11G BOB. So when any of the drives pull ERR/RES to ground, the C11G board and mach4 react to it like an E-STOP.

The motors mounted back, and the encoder wires soldered directly to the data cable wires of the same colors. For that, I cut off the bulky DB-25 connectors.

Pay attention to the property belt tensioning. According to the manufacturer, the belt should sag a maximum of 1mm under the pressure of about 3 pounds applied at its middle point.

With everything connected, it is time to test the machine. See how it homes and runs!

Laying out holes on the heatsink Everything mounted and connected. What a mess! Wiring Schematics

I just uploaded a new standalone and Mastercam 2021 hook version of HSMAdvisor Machinist Calculator.

In it fixed the issue with the loading of older database files and updating DB UI.

Also from this point on HSMAdvisor will switch to Semantic Versioning in the following format: major.minor.build

• Major: big update that makes older version non-forward compatible.
• Minor: a minor update that does not break any existing functionality
• Build: a bug-fix that does not add new features, but fixes the existing ones

Check out the latest version here: https://hsmadvisor.com/?page=Download

Have an enjoyable and safe weekend, everybody!

Centerdrill Calculator added in FSWizard 1.7.9!

Check it out at https://fswizard.com

Calculator shows reference for Imperial and Metric centerdrills and allows to calculate the depth of the drilled hole based on the countersink hole diameter and vise-versa.

Also this new version features better support for wide screens.
The input fields are now stacked in 3 columns when screen width is large enough to fit them.

If you want to sign up for the beta test, please read here: https://zero-divide.net/?shell_id=151&article_id=5271_free-fswizard-pro-for-everybody

Cheers!

Centerdrill Calc

Due to the current situation with lack of N95 masks in the stores I resorted to 3D print a pair for me and my wife.

I also made the designs freely available on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264883

Here is the description of the project:

High airflow Respirator mask in 3 sizes: Large, Medium and Small.

Large works for a large male face. 125mm height*
Medium for a smaller male face. 115 mm
Small works for a female or a 10 y/o kid face. 105mm height.

*I measure face height from chin to the centre of the nose bridge.)

Designed to take 1 or 2 55mm cotton pads into each of 3 filter housings.
Install filter medium into the bottom of the cap and screw on to the mask body.

Make sure to print 3 caps for each mask as well. Caps are the same for all mask sizes.

Used white window insulation sticky cord on the inside to add cushion and improve insulation.

Had to also use a file and fine sanding paper to make sure the mating surfaces on the mask body are smooth and do not have any air gaps.

Disclaimer: I designed and printed this for me and my family. It has not been tested, and although I designed with safety in mind, I do not claim it can prevent any infections or viruses. Use at your own risk. PLEASE be careful when testing: different cotton pad brands have different density and 2 pads per filter may cause difficulty breathing! Please make sure to remove the filters and sanitize the mask and caps after each use.

The models are designed in Fusion 360.

Parts printed on Creality Ender 3S Printer with the following settings:

• Layer Thicknss: 0.2mm
• Infill: 20%
• Filament Material: PLA
• First Layer Speed: 35mm/s
• Wall Speed: 75mm/s
• Support: everywhere
• Support Speed 75mm/s
• Support Density: 1 line at 5%

1 mask plus 3 caps takes about 14 hours to print at: 75mm/s.

Please wash your hands and stay safe.

We will get through this!

Cap Size:0.55 MB Large Mask Size:3.29 MB Medium Mask Size:3.79 MB Small Mask Size:3.78 MB

On the heels of the previous post.

YouTuber Breaking Taps has just published another of his interesting videos:

In it he is testing various High-Speed Machining techniques on his benchtop CNC router.

Also it is mentioned that HSMAdvisor does not seem to like those small high-feed cutters: at some point some calculated values become negative.

This is a legitimate criticism and it actually happens because default cutting depth of 0.024" becomes too large for the 0.24" Lakeshore high feed and mill and an actual Flute length of 0.015" must be entered in order to get proper values:

With actual 0.015" flute length entered the recommended speed and feed values are now in the safe end of the ballpark suggested by the manufacturer.

Task added to the issue tracker!

Just found a very good video of testing a table-top gantry router cutting mild steel.

YouTuber named "Breaking Taps" used speeds and feeds generated by HSMAdvisor to get a starting point.

To see where exactly he was in the calculations I decided to reproduce all of cuts in HSMAdvisor.

A couple of assumptions i made:

1. Tool Type: Solid End Mill. It is not recommended to use the HP/Roughing tool type on such light machines, so i assumed this is the tool BT used.
2. Tool Stick-out looked like about 3/4" so I used that number.
3. Material was set to A36 Hot rolled steel.

Test 1) Minute 4:52

Good, slow and very safe starting point.

Test 2) Minute 6:20

Twice as aggressive as before, but we can still push it further.

Test 3) Minute 7:10

Here we can see the lack of machine rigidity starting to show. But at 65% feed rate it is still alive.

Test 4) Minute 8:30

This last test did not go well at all.

The machine has finally hit its limit and the endmill broke at all S&F overrides at about 100%

Was this fault of the software? Not really!

If that were a heavier machine, the last cut would not even be considered that difficult.

Here is a full slotting cut on a Matsuura VMC:

And here is the calculation that was done using HP/Roughing End Mill tool type:

If i were using the "Solid End Mill" tool definition, i would have to dial the feed override to 176% to match the 45ipm feed rate!

So what can users of light machines do in order to not break taps end mills?

First of all make sure the spindle torque curve is built and enabled in your machine profile settings.

The easiest solution is to de-rate the spindle. There is "Warning at" level in machine profile settings. Set that to 50% for starters and it should save you from exceeding the machine's capabilities.

Overall this was a great test of this little machine's capabilities and of the great help that software like HSMAdviasor can lend in discovering them.

Please head over to Breaking Taps YouTube account and subscribe.