Ever since getting my benchtop CNC running, I have not been very happy with the lack of manual control over overrides and buttons.

This DIY Engineering video gave me a great idea: build one myself.

I wanted the smooth speed and feed overrides, so I decided to not go with HID device, but instead with a full serial control paired with a custom plugin on the UCCNC side.

Here is the Fusion design of the enclosure:

And here it is 3D-Printed.
Acrylic face engraved from the back side and painted.
And all buttons and controls mounted:

All I have to do now is wire the Arduino board, program the plugin, and test it!

Update:

Here is the video of the pendant in action:

1. PCB Design

Design notes:

• All resistors used were 10K
• Speed and Feed potentiometers are 10K
  Their pinout goes Wiper->ground = 0%, Wiper -> +5V = 200%
• Axis and Handwheel Increment rotary switches are 4-position and their pinout goes like this:
  Axis select 1-X, 2-Y, 3-Z, 4-A, C-Common (+5V)
  Handwheel Increment 1-0.0001, 2-0.0010, 3-0.0100, 4-0.1000, C-Common (+5V)
• All function buttons such as Jog +/-, M1, M2, etc are sending +5V signals to the digital pins D2-D12
• D13 digital pin is connected to a LED indicator and is used to tell the user that the Pendant is allowed to send signals to the plugin.

Design files:

• Electronics Design: https://a360.co/3NGWRTP
• https://a360.co/3NLhfDk
• https://a360.co/3JObaVh 

2. Enclosure Design

https://a360.co/3fG3jgI 

If you don't have a 3D printer and/or a CNC Mill, please contact me and I will send you a 3d-printed enclosure and the 3d-printed or milled acrylic face plate:

• 3D-Printed Black PLA Enclosure (shown in pictures): 30$ + shipping
• 3D-Printed Black PLA Face Plate (optional): 15$ + shipping
• CNC Milled and Engraved unpainted (clear) acrylic Face Plate (shown in pictures): 30$ + shipping

3. Arduino Setup

• Install the Full Firmata library onto your Arduino Nano (Or any other Ardiono that supports USB Serial Communication): StandardFirmata sketch used for Arduino NANO is also added to the release package

• Please note that you might need to install Arduino USB Driver in order for your Arduino to work on the target computer!

4. UCCNC Setup

• Download the latest LEETArduinoPendant from the releases and extract it to your PC.
  https://github.com/swindex/LEETArduinoPendant/releases
• Copy the LEETArduinoPendant.dll plugin file to the C:\UCCNC\Plugins directory!
• Copy the Solid.Arduino.dll file from the Solid.Arduino release folder to the C:\UCCNC directory.
• Please note that you might need to install Arduino USB Driver in order for your Arduino to work on the target computer!
• Launch UCCNC.exe, go to Settings->Configure Plugins, and mark the LEET Arduino Pendant plugin as Enabled and Call startup
• After everything is installed, Arduino is connected and UCCNC is running, press the "Enable" (+5v to D2-B-ENABLE ) button that will tell the plugin that the pendant is ready to send signals! D13 (LED+) will then have a continuous +3.3V signal alerting you of that!

Hardware Acquisition (Amazon)

Fusion F360 desing files Size:2.55 MB

Since my garage/shop has a limited workspace, I have long wanted to upgrade the big and clumsy computer I used to drive my little Prolight desktop CNC to something more elegant and convenient.

TL;DR: You can read about the printing settings and download files on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4754968
Here is the shared Fusion Project: https://a360.co/36UhI15

After quite a bit of googling, and testing the UCCNC control software that i already have I decided to re-use my old Z83 mini-PC with Intel Atom processor.

Then I ordered a SunFounter 10.1" touchscreen monitor with a nice resolution of 1200x800 from amazon.

Since the display does not come with an enclosure I decided to design one myself.
A good opportunity to dust off my 3d modeling skills:

Did some testing for HSMAdvisor in A36

Tool: 3/16" 4 FL 0.25" LOC 0.7 Stickout

RPM: 5000 Feed: 32.0ipm

Original engagement DOC:  0.25, WOC: 0.083

Was successful and sounded nice, but the TTS holder started to pull out. Had to half both DOC and WOC for the video:

I have just released a big update for our HSMAdvisor for MasterCAM.

Plugin v2.1.12 now supports Mastercam 2021, 2020 and 2019

Features for all versions are now aligned to the latest HSMAdvisor code!

Check it out here: https://hsmadvisor.com/?page=HSMAdvisor_for_MasterCAM

Cheers!

After almost one month of waiting for parts, tracing wires, testing, soldering, and assembling. Here is the finished product!

Milling case hardened t-slot nuts:

Quick Tool change action with Tormach TTS holders:

Having done all the motor tuning and testing on the table, it was time to mount everything inside the machine enclosure.

I cut the heatsink to size enough to house four drivers, laid out some mounting holes, and drilled and tapped them M3.
Then drilled clearance holes in both the heatsink and the board and joined them with some 19mm long brass standoffs.

Drilled a hole in the enclosure for the motion controller mounting and LAN cable connection.

Then the main board containing drives and the power board and the breakout board were installed in the machine.
At this point, I realized the drive mounting scheme I chose was a mistake because it was a lot more challenging to connect the wires to the drive terminals so deep and so close to the enclosure. It helped to unscrew the main board, pull it out a little, connect the wires and only then push it back in and screw it to the wall of the enclosure.

Traced all the black cable going to the fuses and found which ones control the spindle and which ones go to the appliance plugs.
By fiddling with the controls on the front of the machine, identified all the wires and their functionality.

The Gecko G320X drives use the same (ERR/RES) pin controlling the drive fault reset and the error status.
When the drive is at fault (every time you startup or when the motor loses too many counts), it has a ground voltage of 0. If you pass +5v, it will reset the fault and enable the drive.

So I had to re-use the red cycle stop button to pul it to +5V when the machine is started. To sense the drive fault and stop the machine I used pin 12 (pull-down) on the C11G BOB. So when any of the drives pull ERR/RES to ground, the C11G board and mach4 react to it like an E-STOP.

The motors mounted back, and the encoder wires soldered directly to the data cable wires of the same colors. For that, I cut off the bulky DB-25 connectors.

Pay attention to the property belt tensioning. According to the manufacturer, the belt should sag a maximum of 1mm under the pressure of about 3 pounds applied at its middle point.

With everything connected, it is time to test the machine. See how it homes and runs!

Laying out holes on the heatsink Everything mounted and connected. What a mess! Wiring Schematics

I just uploaded a new standalone and Mastercam 2021 hook version of HSMAdvisor Machinist Calculator.

In it fixed the issue with the loading of older database files and updating DB UI.

Also from this point on HSMAdvisor will switch to Semantic Versioning in the following format: major.minor.build

• Major: big update that makes older version non-forward compatible.
• Minor: a minor update that does not break any existing functionality
• Build: a bug-fix that does not add new features, but fixes the existing ones

Check out the latest version here: https://hsmadvisor.com/?page=Download

Have an enjoyable and safe weekend, everybody!

Centerdrill Calculator added in FSWizard 1.7.9!

Check it out at https://fswizard.com

Calculator shows reference for Imperial and Metric centerdrills and allows to calculate the depth of the drilled hole based on the countersink hole diameter and vise-versa.

Also this new version features better support for wide screens.
The input fields are now stacked in 3 columns when screen width is large enough to fit them.

If you want to sign up for the beta test, please read here: https://zero-divide.net/?shell_id=151&article_id=5271_free-fswizard-pro-for-everybody

Cheers!

Centerdrill Calc

Due to the current situation with lack of N95 masks in the stores I resorted to 3D print a pair for me and my wife.

I also made the designs freely available on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264883

Here is the description of the project:

High airflow Respirator mask in 3 sizes: Large, Medium and Small.

Large works for a large male face. 125mm height*
Medium for a smaller male face. 115 mm
Small works for a female or a 10 y/o kid face. 105mm height.

*I measure face height from chin to the centre of the nose bridge.)

Designed to take 1 or 2 55mm cotton pads into each of 3 filter housings.
Install filter medium into the bottom of the cap and screw on to the mask body.

Make sure to print 3 caps for each mask as well. Caps are the same for all mask sizes.

Used white window insulation sticky cord on the inside to add cushion and improve insulation.

Had to also use a file and fine sanding paper to make sure the mating surfaces on the mask body are smooth and do not have any air gaps.

Disclaimer: I designed and printed this for me and my family. It has not been tested, and although I designed with safety in mind, I do not claim it can prevent any infections or viruses. Use at your own risk. PLEASE be careful when testing: different cotton pad brands have different density and 2 pads per filter may cause difficulty breathing! Please make sure to remove the filters and sanitize the mask and caps after each use.

The models are designed in Fusion 360.

Parts printed on Creality Ender 3S Printer with the following settings:

• Layer Thicknss: 0.2mm
• Infill: 20%
• Filament Material: PLA
• First Layer Speed: 35mm/s
• Wall Speed: 75mm/s
• Support: everywhere
• Support Speed 75mm/s
• Support Density: 1 line at 5%

1 mask plus 3 caps takes about 14 hours to print at: 75mm/s.

Please wash your hands and stay safe.

We will get through this!

Cap Size:0.55 MB Large Mask Size:3.29 MB Medium Mask Size:3.79 MB Small Mask Size:3.78 MB

On the heels of the previous post.

YouTuber Breaking Taps has just published another of his interesting videos:

In it he is testing various High-Speed Machining techniques on his benchtop CNC router.

Also it is mentioned that HSMAdvisor does not seem to like those small high-feed cutters: at some point some calculated values become negative.

This is a legitimate criticism and it actually happens because default cutting depth of 0.024" becomes too large for the 0.24" Lakeshore high feed and mill and an actual Flute length of 0.015" must be entered in order to get proper values:

With actual 0.015" flute length entered the recommended speed and feed values are now in the safe end of the ballpark suggested by the manufacturer.

Task added to the issue tracker!